Deneweth's Roses

We have a huge selection of Star Roses and Jackson Perkins
Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas and more!
Easy Landscape Roses
Knock Out Roses!
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| The Knock Out® Family of Roses are easy to grow and do not require special care. They are the most disease resistant rose on the market. They have stunning flower power with a generous bloom cycle (about every 5-6 weeks) that will continue until the first hard frost. All of the Knock Out® Roses are self-cleaning so there is no need to deadhead. |
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Carpet Roses!

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Winner of over 25 GOLD and INTERNATIONAL Rose AWARDS.
Many times referred to as the "Wonder Rose", the Flower Carpet® ground cover roses, or Carpet Roses, are some of the most popular roses available in the world today. This is because of their long flowering period, easy care and exceptional disease resistance and great drought tolerance. |
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Climbing Roses!

Training a climbing rose is an important part of creating a cascading, heavily blooming rose specimen. Follow these instructions to be certain your climbing rose looks its best.
Here's How:
- Attach trellis at least 3 inches away from the wall that the climbing rose will be attached to.
- Tie the stems of the climbing rose to the trellis with soft cloth strips as it grows throughout the year. Do not prune until the rose covers the entire trellis.
- Gently bend some of the new canes so they grow outward to cover more of the trellis.
- Snip off branches that are growing too thickly. Every three years, cut out some of the older canes and allow new, younger canes to replace them.
- Always remove the weak canes so that the plant can focus strength into a few strong main canes.
Tips:
- Always cut spent flowers to encourage more to form.
- Cut climbing roses in early spring,while still dormant.
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Polar Joy Tree Rose

The Rose Polar Joy, 'Rosa 'Polar Joy', is a hardy tree rose. This introduction from Bailey Nurseries award-winning rose breeding program was developed especially for the northern garden.
The soft pink blossoms combined with the light green foliage gives the impression of spring, apple blossoms.
Polar Joy has excellent disease resistance.
It is especially attractive as a vertical accent among low-growing roses and/or perennials.
Unlike other tree roses which are actually 2 or 3 different roses grafted or budded together (the root, the stem and the top), Polar Joy is the same hardy rose plant from top to bottom giving it unmatched hardiness.
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Garden Magic Michigan Peat
Soil Amendment
Garden Magic Peat is screened for uniform consistency and adds nutrients to sandy soils and helps to break up clay soils. This dark reed sedge peat is perfect for top dressing lawns and gardens.
- Ready to use right out of the bag
- Carefully screened
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Products that make roses better!

Espoma Rose Tone Fertilizer
Rose-tone is a premium rose food
designed to supply the necessary nutrients for growing prize winning roses. The organics in Rose-tone breakdown
gradually providing a safe, long lasting food reservoir activated throughout the
growing season. Rose-tone’s all natural formula now contains Bio-tone®, our patented blend of beneficial microbes. Bio-tone biologically enhances our natural plant food to ensure superior plant growth. |
Rose Care Information
SPRING
1. Prune roses in early spring once the rose starts to show signs of new growth,
usually in the form of tiny red buds swelling. These buds will become new branches.
2. Cut out any obviously dead or damaged branches first. Then cut out all but four or five healthy stems, each ideally about as thick as a pencil.
3. Cut the rose bush back by 1/3 to 1/2, depending on how tall you want it to be. Make these cuts right above an outward facing bud - that is, a red bud that's on the outside of the rose bush. This directs the bud to grow up and out, leaving the center of the rose bush open for a prettier shape and better air circulation.
4. Fertilize roses regularly during the growing season. Roses are hungry plants, demanding lots of nutrients for best growth and flowering. Each rose grower has his or her own favorite method. One of the easiest is to buy a slow-release granular rose food and work it into the soil so it can feed the plant all season long. Otherwise, you'll want to fertilize the rose with a liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks during the growing season (stop in early autumn) or according to package directions.
5. Water diligently. Roses need a steady source of water during the growing season, about 1 inch a week from rain or watering. |
SUMMER
1. Mulch. Roses need less weeding and watering and have fewer diseases if you mulch. Lay down 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings or other biodegradable material.
2. Deadhead. This simply means trimming spent roses off the shrub to encourage it to produce more. While some roses bloom only in one big flush in June, others are bred to keep producing off and on all season long.
3. Spray. If your rose becomes diseased or has an insect infestation, you may want to deal with it by spraying. (However, first try simply trimming off the diseased portion of the plant and giving the plant a good strong blast from a hose.) If you choose to spray, first identify the problem by trimming off the diseased part and taking it to a reliable garden center, where the staff can prescribe the correct pesticide or herbicide. |
FALL AND WINTER
1.Stop fertilizing roses in early autumn, at least one month before your region's first annual frost date. Fertilizing too long into autumn encourages roses to produce tender new growth that will get nipped by cold.
2. Protect roses as needed in late autumn, after your region's first hard freeze. In regions where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F (USDA zone 9 and warmer), no additional winter protection is needed.
In cooler regions where temperatures don't fall below 10 degrees below zero (zones 6 to 8), a simple mounding of several inches of soil over the base of the rose should suffice.
In cold-winter regions where temperatures get colder than 10 degrees below zero (zone 5 and colder), mound to about a foot about a month after your region's last average frost date; additionally, two weeks later, the entire plant should be wrapped in burlap to protect the upper parts.
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